Where to Start
The trail is actually pretty straightforward and you definitely won’t get lost, so no worries. The trek begins in the mountain village of Theth. Stone houses, babbling streams, and steep mountains rising on all sides – it’s already breathtaking, and you haven’t even made it to the top yet. In recent years, Theth has seen a number of newer buildings going up, all thanks to the tourism boom that followed the completion of the paved road from Shkodër in 2021. However, during the summer of 2025, many of these new projects were demolished due to lack of building permits and because they had been constructed on state land. But that’s a whole other story :). Don’t let any of that distract you – just look forward to an amazing trekking experience.
On the Trail
The full trek to Valbonë Pass (including the return journey, a refreshment stop, and time to soak in the views from the saddle) takes a maximum of 8 hours at a relaxed pace. You’ll cover around 18 kilometres and climb approximately 1,100 metres in elevation. In summer, it’s definitely a good idea to set out early in the morning, so you don’t get caught in the heat on the upper sections, which are no longer sheltered by trees. To be safe, bring something to cover your head, plenty of water, and sunscreen. Sturdy hiking boots are an absolute must. Though we do remember the days when East Germans would tackle the climb to Chata pod Rysy in the High Tatras in sandals – we wouldn’t recommend trying that ourselves, as we’re rather fond of our ankles.
The stunning view over the Valbonë valley
You start at around 750 m above sea level in the valley of the village of Theth. The path begins gently. Head in the direction of the hamlet of Gjelaj. Right at the edge of the hamlet, at the first house, turn left onto a steeply rising trail. You’ll spot a red arrow, which you’ll follow throughout the entire ascent. You climb along a forest path… still climbing along a forest path… and if you’re lucky, the bar Gjoka will be open, so you can treat yourself to your first pick-me-up. Finish your coffee and carry on. Before long, the first beautiful views appear, followed by a proper steep climb. This is where your thighs start to make themselves known. You zigzag up winding switchbacks, where your boots slip a little on the rocks and dirt.
Refreshment spots along the route have been increasing in recent years, but one thing is guaranteed. Five kilometres from the start, at an elevation of 1,500 m above sea level, you’ll come across the wooden hut Bar Kafe-Zef Rrgalla, in front of which canned and bottled drinks are cooling in a stream of running water. You won’t be able to resist stopping for a break. In the hot summer heat, you’ll be envying those cans their cold running water.
After a short rest, you press on. You still have approximately 1.3 km and 300 metres of elevation ahead of you. You should comfortably reach the pass in about 30–40 minutes. After roughly half a kilometre, the trees almost disappear entirely, replaced by grey rock. Just when you think the summit is within reach, you’ll realise it was just an optical illusion. Nothing comes for free – that’s just the way it is in the mountains.
⛰️ What to Pack for the Valbonë Pass Trek
If you’re planning the trek between Valbonë and Theth, I recommend bringing at least:
– quality trekking boots
– a 20–30 l backpack
– a lightweight waterproof jacket or rain poncho
– trekking poles
– a water bottle or hydration bladder
View gear on Decathlon
The rest of the route is more or less manageable, although there are still some seriously steep sections along the way. And then it happens. You arrive at the pass. You snap a photo at the signpost reading Qafa e Valbonës 1795 m. One of the arrows points you in the direction of Valbonë. If you’re feeling adventurous, it’s about 2.5 hours downhill from here to Valbonë. The ideal option is to spend the night in Valbonë and return the same way back to Theth the following day.
If that’s not part of your plan, pull out your snacks and simply sit back and marvel at the incredibly beautiful mountains all around you. Don’t forget to climb a few metres higher to the viewpoint, from where you’ll be rewarded with a sweeping view of the entire Valbonë valley. It’s one of those moments when you’re reminded, once again, that the world is a beautiful place. The descent back to Theth follows the same route and can actually be tougher than the climb up. You’ve already got 3–4 hours of walking in your legs, and now you’re faced with slippery rocks and a steep downhill. You might find yourself cursing the fact that you left your poles in the car. If your legs aren’t well trained, you’ll definitely feel them by evening – and next time, you won’t forget the poles.
At the Valbonë Pass
The Climb to Valbonë Pass Is More Than a Trek – It’s an Experience
To sum it all up, the climb to Valbonë Pass is more than just a trek – it’s an experience. It will reveal the incredible beauty of the Albanian Alps, their ruggedness, and at the same time their warmth and hospitality. Along the way, you might encounter friendly locals, horses grazing freely, or shepherd dogs (careful – don’t touch!). And the best part? The Albanian Alps are not yet overrun with tourists, so you have a real chance to experience them to the fullest – and feel like you almost have them to yourself.
