On the Albanian Riviera, beaches with sunbeds, bars and loud music are multiplying rapidly today. Filikuri, however, remains different. Raw, calm and slightly inaccessible. And precisely because of this, it still maintains its authentic character, which is becoming increasingly rare on the Albanian coast.
Where to find Filikuri beach and why to go there
Filikuri lies south of Himara in a small protected bay, separated from the better-known Potami beach by dramatic rocky headlands. They cut into the sea and create a natural barrier, thanks to which the beach remains away from the main tourist rush.
Himara is an ideal starting point for exploring this place. It will win you over primarily with its relaxed atmosphere. In general, Himara is a great place for a holiday in Albania. Compared to busier destinations like Saranda or Ksamil, it offers a much more authentic experience of the Albanian coast. At the same time, it is located in the middle of the riviera, so you have easy access to other beautiful beaches in the area. Himara offers plenty of restaurants, cafes and accommodation for various budgets.
The journey to Himara: an experience even before the beach
Before you even set out to Filikuri, you have the journey to Himara ahead of you, which is one of the most beautiful road trips in Europe. The coastal road SH8 connects the north and south of Albania and offers breathtaking scenery that changes with every kilometer.
If you’re arriving from the north, you’ll pass through the iconic Llogara Pass, where the road dramatically winds along a mountain slope and opens up views of the sea far below you. You can drive through the pass via a tunnel that has been open since 2024, but we recommend doing at least one journey along the hairpin bends up to 1020 m a.s.l. and letting yourself be swept away by the amazing views of the horizon of the Ionian Sea and the nearby Greek island of Corfu. After crossing the pass, you’ll find a winding and beautiful journey between mountain villages scattered above the coast. You’ll very likely encounter a flock of sheep, goats, or even a solo wandering cow that will make it clear to you who’s in charge here.
From Tirana to Himara you’ll arrive via the aforementioned route in approximately four hours, from southern Saranda in about an hour and a half. Although buses exist, their schedules tend to be irregular, which is why a car is the best way to explore the area fully and without restrictions. The advantage of driving your own vehicle is the possibility of stopping at viewpoints and also at cafes, where typical Albanian peace and quiet prevails.
How to get to Filikuri Beach
On foot: a small daring expedition with a great reward
The most common route leads from Potami beach, which lies on the southern edge of Himara. If you manage to reach its southern end by car, you have approximately 30 minutes of walking ahead of you to reach Filikuri beach. If you set out from the center of Himara, you’ll have about an hour-long trip ahead of you.
From Potami beach, the path initially runs along a wider concrete trail, which gradually transforms into a dusty footpath between bushes and low vegetation. As if by a wave of a wand, you find yourself in a peaceful landscape without tourist crowds, accompanied only by the sound of wind and the loud calls of cicadas.
The path has some marking, but even without it, you will instinctively understand which way to go. The path is quite well-trodden and easily traceable. You will pass warning signs about the danger of falling, so stay alert. Gradually you will reach the edge of the cliff, from where you will get your first view of Filikuri. The turquoise water contrasting with white pebbles and dark rocks is truly impressive from here. Then comes the final section, which is the greatest adventure for many visitors, but also a risk.
Descent from the cliff: an intense experience at your own risk
The final part of the path leads steeply down along a rocky diagonal. There are ropes available to help with the descent, but caution and sure movement are required. It is uncertain whether the ropes will be functional, as they often tear, so it’s better not to rely on them.
The terrain is slippery in places and some sections are smooth, so you descend face-first toward the rock. For people with a fear of heights or unused to moving in terrain, movement can be dangerous. In recent years there have been falls with fatal consequences, so don’t take the descent lightly. This expedition is certainly not for children. It is precisely this “obstacle” that is the reason why Filikuri maintains its peace and quiet. Not everyone is willing to come here.
By kayak or boat: a more comfortable alternative
Another option is to head to the beach by sea. A kayak, paddleboard or small boat offers a completely different view of the coast, and the journey itself is a great experience. Commercial boat tours have one advantage – you can also take children.
In calm weather, the sea around Himara is crystal clear and relatively calm. A kayak or paddleboard trip takes approximately one hour. However, it is important to monitor conditions, as wind can quickly pick up waves and change direction. There is a risk of hitting rocks or at least an uncomfortable landing on a rocky beach. The worst scenario is when the wind turns towards the sea and you could involuntarily head towards Italy. Please do not take these words as discouraging. It is just a kind of warning and awareness that the sea is not a bathtub.
🛥️ By kayak or boat
Here’s Filikuri beach
Once you overcome the final meters of descent in the hiking version, you find yourself on a small pebble beach surrounded by high cliffs. The entire place feels enclosed and isolated from the surrounding world.
The water has the typical turquoise color that is characteristic of this part of Albania. On a calm day, the surface is almost perfectly transparent. The pebbles here are larger than on other beaches in the area, which can make walking difficult, but at the same time gives the place a specific character. Among the stones there are also small sandy areas that are ideal for relaxation.
Although Filikuri is less accessible, in the main season you will definitely not be alone here. Boat trips are popular, so during the day plenty of boats with passengers turn up here. Nevertheless, the atmosphere is incomparably calmer than on larger beaches.
🏨 Accommodation in southern Albania
If you’re planning a vacation on the Albanian Riviera, here are our accommodation tips:
No services, just nature
One of the main characteristics of Filikuri is the complete absence of infrastructure. You won’t find any bars, restaurants or sunbeds here yet. For some a disadvantage, for others a huge plus. However, this means you have to bring everything with you. Water, food and sun protection are absolutely essential. The sun shines here at full strength during the day and there is minimal shade, especially around noon.
👉 Guide to the beaches of the Albanian Riviera
Practical tips that really help
What to bring with you
On Filikuri, you shouldn’t underestimate anything. Ideal equipment includes enough water, light food, sunscreen, a head covering and sunglasses. A book or power bank can also come in handy if you plan to stay longer. Water shoes are very practical because walking on large rocks is not exactly comfortable.
Proper footwear for getting to the beach is essential
One of the most common mistakes visitors make is wearing inappropriate shoes. Flip-flops or sandals are not suitable for descending rocks. Sturdy boots that fit well on your feet and don’t slip are ideal. Take this reminder very seriously.
When to go
If you want to avoid crowds and travel in cooler temperatures, head to the beach early in the morning. You can even go between seven and eight in the morning. Temperatures are more pleasant and the sea is usually calmer, making it more suitable for swimming. In the afternoon, there can be not only more people, but also stronger wind and waves.
The return trip: the second half of the challenge
Many people find the journey back more demanding than the descent itself. Climbing up the rocks requires more strength and coordination, especially in one steeper section. If you made it down, though, you’ll manage the return with caution. Your reward will be the feeling that you’ve accomplished a small rock climbing expedition, not just an ordinary trip to the beach. We must again emphasize that descent and ascent are at your own risk.
Who is Filikuri ideal for
Filikuri is not a universal destination for everyone. It will be enjoyed most by people who love adventure, peace and nature without the influence of modern tourism. If you’re looking for comfort, bars and service, you’ll probably be happier elsewhere. But if you crave an authentic experience, Filikuri won’t disappoint you.
Final impressions
Filikuri Beach is a place you will remember. It is a combination of adventure, peace and raw nature that is slowly disappearing on the Albanian Riviera. And that’s exactly why it’s worth visiting before it changes.
