We first visited Qeparo in 2021, driven by our curiosity – we spotted a cluster of stone houses from a distance and couldn’t resist. That strangely-looking formation simply “got” us. We climbed up on foot along the old gravel road full of hairpin turns and ruts, because our campervan wouldn’t make it. Today, the access to the village is a breeze. The road from the main highway has a brand new asphalt surface.
Why visit the old part of the village of Qeparo?
You can find plenty of abandoned villages in Albania. But Qeparo is different in some ways. It’s not a dead ruin – it’s a place that balances between oblivion and the breath of new life. A large part of the houses was gradually abandoned in the last century, when families moved down to the new village of the same name or left abroad in the 90s due to new challenges. Today, some locals are returning, renovating old stone houses, and the village is slowly coming to life. One reason to visit the village as soon as possible could also be that you can still see abandoned houses with collapsed roofs and artifacts that tell stories of life back then, while in a few years the village might be completely reconstructed.
Upper and Lower Qeparo
- Upper Qeparo, which is the subject here, lies on the slope of Mount Gjivlash at a height of about 450 meters above sea level and dates from the Iron Age. This area was inhabited in the Late Bronze Age (around the 14th to 11th century BC) by the Greek tribe of the Chaonians. You will be offered narrow stone streets, old houses with dark wooden doors, cobblestones under your feet and a feeling that you have entered another era. One theory claims that the name Qeparo was derived from the Greek word kipos, which means garden. And that’s exactly how you will feel. Like in a garden that is a living museum of ancient times.
- Lower Qeparo emerged after 1957, when the then communist government built a coastal road and people gradually began to move closer to the sea. It’s a very nice place to stay by the sea. The old village gives it charm, which oversees everything from a great height. Paradoxically, most visitors have no idea that a few kilometers above them lies a historical gem.
What to do in old Qeparo
The main activity is endless walks through the maze of streets that seem to have no end. You will be tempted by a street that turns around the corner, you will discover an old well or an abandoned house with a collapsing balcony or a renovated house with flowers on the terrace – proof that life continues here. Looking inside roofless houses is like time travel. Your imagination will automatically begin to project a film of what it looked like here when Albanians still lived here with their families. If you are photographers, try to arrive early in the morning or in the evening. Low light and shadows are simply amazing and the atmosphere is calmer. Rest assured that even that calm will be “visible” in the photos.
In the center of the old village stands an Orthodox church with a beautiful bell tower, built in 1796. If you are lucky and the gate is open, you can even peek inside. A few hundred meters from the village are the ruins of Ali Pasha’s fortress. The path leads along an old footpath through olive groves. Archaeological studies show that this was the original settlement from the Iron Age, known as Karos.
Practical information
Transport
- By car: From the main road SH8 (coastal road between Sarandë and Vlorë), the exit to Upper Qeparo is marked. From there, a 2.5 km long narrow serpentine path leads to Upper Qeparo. The journey takes about 5 minutes by car – not counting the time to admire the views. The road is already asphalt, so it’s passable by any car.
- By bus to Qeparo and then on foot: Buses run on the main road between Sarandë and Himarë and stop in Lower Qeparo. From there, you have to walk to Upper Qeparo. The journey takes about 45 minutes. The views of the olive groves and the sea are beautiful. In summer, don’t forget plenty of water.
Where to stay
Villa Porta Qeparo – an authentic experience right in the village
If you want to truly experience old Qeparo, this is our unbeatable TIP. Villa Porta Qeparo is a boutique guesthouse in a renovated stone house at the entrance to the village. You sleep in an authentic stone house and have breakfast on a terrace with a view of the olive trees and the sea. The owners are extremely friendly and welcoming. If you prefer modern comfort and proximity to the sea, stay down on the beach. You will find hotels and accommodation with locals, just explore Booking. The old village is a few minutes’ drive away.
Where to eat
Our tip is the restaurant Te Rrapi ne Qeparo, which is located a short distance from the entrance to the Upper Qeparo village. In a small garden in the shade of a giant oak tree, you will feel great even in hot summer. Owner Veronika will offer you products of her amazing regional and international cuisine.
What to see in the area
Porto Palermo Fortress (15 minutes by car)
Porto Palermo Castle (Kalaja e Porto Palermos) is located between Himare and the village of Qeparo on a peninsula in a small tectonic bay of Porto Palermo (known in antiquity as Panorme Bay). The peninsula is connected to the mainland by a short and narrow strip of land. The castle has a triangular shape with wall lengths of 150 m and a height of up to 20 m. The fortress was reportedly built, on the site of a Byzantine structure, by the Ottoman ruler Ali Pasha of Tepelena in the early 19th century.
Borsh Beach and the castle of the same name (10 minutes by car to the south)
Borsh has the longest beach in southern Albania, and on the hill above it stands Borsh Fortress. The beach stretches over 7 kilometres — ideal for long walks along the sea. Borsh Castle (Kalaja e Borshit) — formerly Sopot Castle — stands on a hill above the village of Borsh, 3 km from the sea. The favourable geographical position has supported settlement since ancient times. The roots of the castle date back to the 4th–3rd century BC.
Himare (20 minutes by car)
If, after the tranquillity of Qeparo, you want a livelier atmosphere, Himare is a great compromise. It is a popular, pleasantly-sized town offering excellent conditions for a relaxing holiday. In Himare itself you can swim on beaches with crystal-clear Ionian Sea waters, and you will find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars.
Qeparo — a place that will capture your heart
Old Upper Qeparo is unlike other tourist destinations in Albania. There is no aquapark, animation programme or cocktail bar here. What you will find are stone houses, olive trees, the sea in the distance, and the feeling of having touched something truly authentic. A place where you can get lost in the alleyways, sit on a terrace with wine, and simply be.
For us, Qeparo is one of the proofs that Albania offers more than just beaches. It offers stories, history and places that get under your skin — not because they are perfect, but because they are real. If you are looking for peace, beauty and authenticity, Qeparo is a place you must visit.
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